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Eric Chevalier - Clos de la Butte 2017

Éric Chevalier is out to prove that Muscadet is a versatile white, with countless purposes beyond washing down oysters. He boldly switched to organic farming and ditched his machine harvester for the tried-and-true two hands and a pair of pruning shears—sadly, both uncommon practices in the region. His cellar practices further differentiate him from the Muscadet masses, as he relies solely on indigenous yeasts for fermentation, uses tiny doses of sulfur, and filters minimally. The outcome? This utterly mouthwatering, lip-smacking Melon de Bourgogne is much more than a simple oyster wine, but that isn’t to say that a cold glass alongside shucked bivalves won’t land you in Melon heaven.

Anthony Lynch